The French Silk Industry: How And Where It All Began

One of the first fibers to be discovered by mankind, silk was originally found in China. With an illustrious and enchanting history behind it, the route to popularity for silk makes for really interesting reading. It found its way into the European continent and Mediterranean region through the ancient silk trade route.

The Roman Empire was the first to know of China's well kept secret and were soon involved in trading silk. The fibre soon became very popular in Europe, so much so that the French Monarch Francis I extended an invitation to Italian silkweavers to set up an industry in the country. By the time the 17th century came to an end, Italian domination in the silk weaving industry was being challenged by the French.

Lyon, the flag-bearer of the French silk industry: As we start discussing a brief history of the French silk industry, our focus invariably shifts to one of the most popular weaving destinations in the country- Lyon was one of the front-runners where shoppers could buy French silk scarves and is still famous for following a unique style of weaving.

In the renowned novel, "The Silk Romance" the protagonist Jean-Luc reveals an old and famous saying. According to this popular statement the city of Lyon had three rivers flowing through it: the river Saone, the river Rhone, and the river of tears that was left behind by the silk workers. Indeed, the silk industry in the city is a dying one but nevertheless, it continues to produce one of the finest quality of the fibre in terms of its sheen and glamour and is still revered around the world.

During the fifteenth century, the French would import all their raw silk from various parts of Asia and Europe. However, this was an extremely expensive strategy and was the prime reason behind Louis XI's decision to establish Lyon as the hub for silk weaving industry in the country. Later on when it received the license to control the monopoly of production, Lyon came to be regarded as the "City of Silk."

Significant developments- the Jacquard silk loom: The year 1804 was witness to a development which served as a revolutionary move not only for the silk industry but the global textile industry at large. Joseph-Marie Jacquard, a native of Lyon, came up with a technique with which patterned fabrics could be produced using no more than simple perforated cards. This resulted in global weaving techniques undergoing significant progress in leaps and bounds. One of the earliest prototypes for computerized production, this technique soon spread like wildfire through Europe. Not only did it create a stir in the silk industry, but its effects were also felt in the wool production industry as far north as Yorkshire in England.

Birth of the Croix-Rousse district: Following the revolutionary discovery by Jacquard with regards to development in the field of silk production, much of Lyon's burden of labour was shifted to the Croix-Rousse district. Located close to the city itself, its setting on top of a hill was the perfect vantage point that gave a panoramic view of Lyon down below. Today, this place has been earmarked as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One can still find a number of stoned passageways in the Croix-Rousse district. These covered zones were known as traboules and were built so that the silk weavers could carry their produce through the rain and not have to worry about the fibre getting wet. The houses also feature very high ceilings which was probably done so as to allow the accommodation of the tall Jacquard looms. The weavers who worked in this region were known as canuts. They carried out the first organized revolt of the working class in Europe in the year 1831 to protest against their extremely poor income and social conditions.

French Revolution and its effect on the silk production industry: With the sudden communal eruption and uprising surrounding the French Revolution, there was severe amount of damage done to the French silk industry resulting in loss of livelihood for many weavers. To add to that conflict, there was also a change in the furnishing and dressing trends among the individuals as they opted for something a lot simpler and cheaper than the luxurious fine-print silk clothes. The French General Napoleon made a concerted effort to revive the demand for luxurious fabrics by commissioning new decorations with which his Imperial Palace would be furnished. This, in the early part of the nineteenth century, gave rise to a popular style of print that continues to be known to this day as the Empire. However, the damage had already been done as the once bustling silk-producing hub of Lyon was now left with only a handful of families to practice and carry forward the legacy of the trade.

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